Jay77
NES Member
Some 93 and 120gr .311 coming out now
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/MFS May Giveaway ***Canik METE SFX***
Bullet Casting & Coating MegaThread
- Thread starter 38ExtraSpecial
- Start date
Some 93 and 120gr .311 coming out now
Jay77
NES Member
Dumb question…. When setting the depth is there a guideline on how deep to go with the cast bullets? Like past the last lube groove but before the ogive. These pictures might help with my question. The book says 1.68 max oal but that puts it in a lube groove. The longer bullet does chamber.
Figured I would ask. Going to load these up with 2400.
Figured I would ask. Going to load these up with 2400.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
As long as will fit in the chamber.
That being said with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth make sure that the case mouth has lead under it. You want some of that front driving band supporting the brass.
Reason being if it has a lube groove under it and it gets jammed tight into the chamber there could be an issue where the chamber stop acts like a crimp die.
The cartridge sits too deep. Basically crimps the case into that groove and when you touch off the shot it wants to tear the brass out the bore along with the bullet.
Eagle eye shooting had documented similar issues with 350 Legend factory ammo. Basically over crimped so it sat deep in the chamber. The firing pin could still reach the primer though.
Basically ended in some erratic shots and case head separation.
I watched the same thing happy with 350 legend at the range one night. Baaad ammo.
So I would seat them 1/16” or so onto the front driving band.
Jay77
NES Member
Awesome and thanks. I’ll start in the middle of the band.
Jay77
NES Member
So I think I answered my own question when I was testing these out today (about the seating depth). I shot about 30 today and noticed a circle bands of lead shavings in the chamber of the gun. Like when you seat a bullet in a cap and ball revolver. The bore micrometer out to 309 and I sized to .311 but I think I need to seat the bullet deeper. I was able to find a perfect circle of lead I was able to compare it to a bullet and it looked to be the same size as to what is exposed. I’m going to try seating the ones loaded up deeper and see what the outcome is. The 30 I shot did have some minor functioning issues but it will get sorted out. I’ll have to look around to see if I have a 310 sizing die.
Jay77
NES Member
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Chamber a dummy round bad pull it out. Look for interference.
Can you get a pic of the chamber? Some 1911s have an issue where the throat is non existent really and more of a shoulder into the rifling and it will cut a ring of lead just like that. Then the next shot irons that lead into the bore. There’s some threads on CastBoolits about it. There’s a dude over there Doug guy I believe who remedies this by reaming chambers.
Not sure if 30 carbine chamber specs are similar.
Can you get a pic of the chamber? Some 1911s have an issue where the throat is non existent really and more of a shoulder into the rifling and it will cut a ring of lead just like that. Then the next shot irons that lead into the bore. There’s some threads on CastBoolits about it. There’s a dude over there Doug guy I believe who remedies this by reaming chambers.
Not sure if 30 carbine chamber specs are similar.
What mold is that?
I tried cast in the 30 carbine . I did not have feeding or chamber issues but accuracy was so so.
Possibly a little tight in the “neck” and when your chambering a round the chamber is squish the case just a touch
Jay77
NES Member
It’s the lee 309 120 LH mold and the bullets are coated with hi-tek and sized to .311. I have to look around but I don’t think I have a .310. I have a .308 and .309 and I may have a .310 lube a matic die but I’ll have to look.
Photos so far are coming out like crap but I can say the bore is lead free and the lead shavings are in the chamber. That perfect lead ring was from a bullet that didn’t fully chamber and was ejected manually and the ring was on the un fired bullet. I’m going to try to take a run out tonight with the bullets I seated deeper.
Photos so far are coming out like crap but I can say the bore is lead free and the lead shavings are in the chamber. That perfect lead ring was from a bullet that didn’t fully chamber and was ejected manually and the ring was on the un fired bullet. I’m going to try to take a run out tonight with the bullets I seated deeper.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Any chance that the bullet is being forced in deeper during chambering? That could cause the case mouth tho shave some lead if it was crimped in too tight.
Jay77
NES Member
Could be… going for a rip in a few.
Jay77
NES Member
Lot less shavings
Chamber casting would help .
Hows your case length. Have you checked headspace ?
Maybe the bullet ogive is to fat in the wrong places. Compare bullet profile of a factory bullet to your mold.
Is that mold specific to 30 carbine ?
I run a 311410 and am waiting on a 311359 both lyman numbers
Last edited:
Jay77
NES Member
Patch one came with a small surprise…
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
You need a bore scope
Jay77
NES Member
What would you recommend?
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I can’t think of the name. Lyman’s is nice but I think it’s endo snake that was pretty cheap and got great reviews. Lots of options on eBay too. I believe @pastera had one he picked up off eBay that plugs into your phone.
This is where a chamber casting comes in handy. You see that ridge thats where the case mount “head spaces” against. Just forward is the lead/throat. Ideally the cast bullet should be sized to the lead or close
Think whats hapening is your case might be a smidge to long and the bullet a .00X to big. Try sizing to .309”
Jay77
NES Member
I’ll drop the brass in the tumbler today, trim up the brass and size to .309 and see how it goes. A bore scope that connects to a phone would be handy.
Just be careful I bought a few cheap amazon bore scopes that said they worked with phones none have.
I bought a Teslong bore scope while back thats not terrible but you need a witeless box to hook it to phone
Jay77
NES Member
The Teslong got some good reviews. I’lol snag one at some point in the near future. I got the carbine brass in the tumbler now.
Had a nice session w my new mold from MP. The 6 cavity 9mm 147gr in brass.
22 lbs of production later, the RCBS promelt 2 is now officially clogged. Emptied the whole thing out and the tip is clogged w metallic substance. Propane torch doesn’t seem to be melting it. I hope some of you will have some suggestions. Murphy’s law, get new mold… now pot is acting up.
I had it running as high as 775 today and as low as 725. At 725 it wouldn’t take a new 1lb ingot without starting to loose viscosity, so I went back upwards and it ended up clogged after a while back at higher temps. I was able to keep unclogging it with a metal wire up the nozzle, but eventually even that wasn’t working so I ended up ladling it out and photos above is where I’m at now. Oh, the pleasures of casting
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Well the bullets look greatView attachment 586617
Had a nice session w my new mold from MP. The 6 cavity 9mm 147gr in brass.
22 lbs of production later, the RCBS promelt 2 is now officially clogged. Emptied the whole thing out and the tip is clogged w metallic substance. Propane torch doesn’t seem to be melting it. I hope some of you will have some suggestions. Murphy’s law, get new mold… now pot is acting up.
I had it running as high as 775 today and as low as 725. At 725 it wouldn’t take a new 1lb ingot without starting to loose viscosity, so I went back upwards and it ended up clogged after a while back at higher temps. I was able to keep unclogging it with a metal wire up the nozzle, but eventually even that wasn’t working so I ended up ladling it out and photos above is where I’m at now. Oh, the pleasures of casting
View attachment 586618
View attachment 586619
find a drill bit that just seats in there and try to twist it by hand. It’s probably a lot of oxidized junk.
It happens with the Lee pots too. Usually you don’t run them below 1/3 or 1/4 pot so you never let the floaty crud get to the spout.
Try to find a an even smaller drill bit that just fits into the bottom of the pour spout and do the same thing.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
How do you like the brass vs. the aluminum?View attachment 586617
Had a nice session w my new mold from MP. The 6 cavity 9mm 147gr in brass.
22 lbs of production later, the RCBS promelt 2 is now officially clogged. Emptied the whole thing out and the tip is clogged w metallic substance. Propane torch doesn’t seem to be melting it. I hope some of you will have some suggestions. Murphy’s law, get new mold… now pot is acting up.
I had it running as high as 775 today and as low as 725. At 725 it wouldn’t take a new 1lb ingot without starting to loose viscosity, so I went back upwards and it ended up clogged after a while back at higher temps. I was able to keep unclogging it with a metal wire up the nozzle, but eventually even that wasn’t working so I ended up ladling it out and photos above is where I’m at now. Oh, the pleasures of casting
View attachment 586618
View attachment 586619
It’s hard to say… only 22lbs into them lol
They were a little to frosty for my liking. I was trying to get the temp down to kill the frost and then the clogging started and kept getting worst.
My other old aluminum 8 cavity is in serious need to repair. The bolt hole that holds on the sprue plate is stripped so I would like to retap the aluminum w a bigger threaded bolt. It’s a wierd bolt so i guess all I can do is hope MP carry’s a repair bolt that is the next thread size up.
Note the slop… can’t tighten bolt any further, the aluminum it’s in is stripped.
Attachments
Artie
NES Member
This - hit the nozzle with a torch, get it nice and hot (not glowing but hot) then clean out by twisting the drill bit by handWell the bullets look great
It’s probably a lot of oxidized junk.
It happens with the Lee pots too. Usually you don’t run them below 1/3 or 1/4 pot so you never let the floaty crud get to the spout.
Try to find a an even smaller drill bit that just fits into the bottom of the pour spout and do the same thing.
Likely just oxides clogging it and those won't melt at pouring temperature.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
That’s why I run 2 moulds at a time. It’s keep the cadence perfect so you don’t overheat either mould. That is of course if you’re running similar sized moulds.
Yeah just drill and tap oversized and use a regular machine screw. I did that with my first mould. I’m sure it had multiple hundred thousands through it. She’s beat but she works fine.
Or like @Artie said use a helicoil.
Helicoil to the rescue
First smelt in a year new pot at the new place like the new pot have a look of lead to clean new place started to look like a junk yard
