New Acquisitions for November 2006!

[drgrant]

I have a Savage 10FP-LE 20".

(note: please forgive the incorrect timestamp.. dunno even why I had it turned on! no, I don't have
a time machine!)

The only thing "wrong" with this gun is that it doesnt have
detacheable magazines. I know that sounds dumb, but if you want
to "keep going" its a lot easier to just put in a small mag than it is
to push in the 3 or 4 rounds. And the capacity lists as 4 rounds but
the rifle is a lot nicer to you if you only load in 3. (If you don't coax
the 4th in there nicely, then the magazine can jam up internally. 3 rounds
is easy, though).

The gun is an absolute tackdriver. 1" at 100 yds with a rest and FGM
Match (as shown in the picture) isn't hard to do with a non-moron
pulling the trigger.

The problem I have right now is my glass. I have that dumbass millett
scope on there. I think I'm going to replace it with a Leupy, when I
can justify putting down that kind of cash for glass.

IMO if I am ever going to get another bolt, I'm buying the glass first THEN
the rifle. IMO the glass itself is almost more important than the rifle
is. There are a metric ton of 1 MOA bolt rifles out there. But what good
are they if we can't see the target well enough?

-Mike

 

[dreppucci007]

The problem I have right now is my glass. I have that dumbass millett scope on there. I think I'm going to replace it with a Leupy, when I can justify putting down that kind of cash for glass.

But what good are they if we can't see the target well enough?

That's a nice looking rifle, Mike. You're on the money with the scope thing. I think the only time I haven't put a Leupold on a rifle was a $100 .22lr Marlin bolt action I bought 5 years ago, because a Simmons came on it already

I've been known to spend more on the glass than the gun...My Remington LTR has a Leupold Mark IV 4.5x14x50 Illuminated Mil-Dot on it...You guys know how much those cost, but it's always crisp and clear and well worth the $$$. You don't, however, need to go with something that fancy...A nice Vari-X II would work perfectly, and if you've got a C&R on file with MidwayUSA, you get a pretty good discount on them.

 

[drgrant]

I've been known to spend more on the glass than the gun...My Remington LTR has a Leupold Mark IV 4.5x14x50 Illuminated Mil-Dot on it...You guys know how much those cost, but it's always crisp and clear and well worth the $$$. You don't, however, need to go with something that fancy...A nice Vari-X II would work perfectly, and if you've got a C&R on file with MidwayUSA, you get a pretty good discount on them.

All very true, Dave...

The other thing about having good glass is repeatability. With the clickers,
etc, on a Leupy or other quality scope is if you want to "dial in" a set of
settings for one bullet and change it for another, you -know- that when
you crank it back that it will be where it's supposed to be. That capability
is priceless. This way you can easily go between milsurp fodder and
FGM 168, or another load you like. The clicks on the knobs actually
-mean- something instead of the "contrast knob on the TV set" type crap
you find on cheap scopes. Good glass is often a dealmaker on a rifle-
eg, when you have a rifle set up like yours, all of a sudden its personal value
increases dramatically because it has the glass on top of it. Anything that
adds to the "Whoa!" / factor when you go shooting is well worth it,
in my book. I have a feeling once I get new glass on the Savage it will
be like buying a new gun all over again, just about.

-Mike

 

[drgrant]

For the sake of being a little more on topic... lol...

An HK USP .40, KE Datecode, "improved" but still with the standard
rifled barrel. (I think in late 94 they were all polygonal by then, but this
was before that... No matter, it still shoots just as good as a poly!)

This is my response to the election of Deval Fu*k- uh, er, I mean
Patrick. And yes, all the magazines are preban 13
rounders and most of them even have a wonderful date code on them of 6/94.

This gun is special because I put a good 2 hours worth of work into
it.... in terms of smoothing up the DA trigger a bit. I tore it all down, polished a few things a
bit (with the obvious exception of the sear) and installed a 12 lb Wolff mainspring. There still is a
little roughness left, but not nearly as much as it had when I started. The 10 pound mainspring
was even nicer, but that was pushing the edge of reliability, and I started having light strikes. The
12 pounder was very reliable, however, even across ammo with nortoriously hard primers (eg, Sellier + Bellot, CCI, etc).


-Mike

 

[JuergenG]

OK, I see I have to keep up.
New acquisitions are a WWII Sauer 38H in .32 and a 1965
Walther P.38 in 9mm Luger, pics to follow.

BTW, the Mauser .22 trainer from the end of November turned out to be of pre-1939 manufacture, as indicated by the proof firing marks (crown over B, G, and U)

For whatever reason it has been re-proofed in 1959, and
that's likely the reason for no one else bidding for it

I know, it's December but the 2 pistols were bought on 11/30.

 

[pj150]

Here's one I didn't post for November

This was a few days after I got it and shot about 700 rds in one session.

It currently sports a cheap BSA red dot I got from walmart.

 

[Twigg]

This was a few days after I got it and shot about 700 rds in one session.

It currently sports a cheap BSA red dot I got from walmart.

Looks like yours is a bit more accurate than mine...

Them 22-45' is nice tho' ain't they ?

 

[pj150]

Not bad, but I think I would have preferred the stainless version. This one is the blued 5.5 bull barrel with adj. sights. Maybe the slab sides or a longer barrel would have been nicer. Can't complain though. It's a nice shooter for the money.