RK1717
NES Member
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Are those mirrors on the ceiling? For seeing into the hoppers?Finished product.[/URL][/IMG]![]()
I'm going to show this to the wife and tell her this is happening in the basement next year.lFinished product.[/URL][/IMG]![]()
Are those mirrors on the ceiling? For seeing into the hoppers?
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Are those mirrors on the ceiling? For seeing into the hoppers?
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
I'm going to show this to the wife and tell her this is happening in the basement next year.l
It comes in handy!
Jesus man. What HAVEN'T you thought of?
To those of you didn't notice the black pipe going to the 650 on the left, that appears to be a vacuum line to suck up chips from the case trimmer. Insane.
You are a sick sick genius. And I mean that in a most complementary way.
Don
Finally had a good bunch of wolf gold .223 cases and some federal .223 cases that needed to be tumbled. After tumbling I lubed a few to get my Hornady die setup for resizing. I used the Hornady comparator tool to get an idea of how much I'm pushing the shoulder back. There was a big difference between the wolf and federal brass (granted the federal cases I picked up from a guy shooting his Ruger AR556, not from my AR. The wolf cases were fired from my AR). I could consistency bump the shoulders back by 0.003" on the wolf cases but when I sized a federal case, it bumped the shoulders by 0.009" which is WAY too much of course.
I'm also dreading the trimming process as I originally thought about getting a giraud but the trim lengths will be all over the place unless I sort by headstamp which seems like a bit much? I did notice that none of the wolf cases were longer than 1.754" while the federal cases were no longer than 1.745" after resizing. So I may not need to trim on the first go around.
Do you guys actually sort .223 brass by headstamp in order to trim consistently? I understand that with precision long range loads you want consistency but I'm only shooting 120 yards with 55 gr Hornady FMJs... Got some H335 coming in the mail tomorrow actually. Figured I'd buy the cheapest powder and bullets for shooting 120 yards.
I think for now, I'll settle for the Lee cutter and lock stud chucked into my cordless drill. Also tried out reaming primer pockets for the first time. I just used the pocket reamer from my lyman case prep tool and chucked it into my drill and it seemed to work very well (I tested by seating primers before and after reaming to confirm ease of seating).
I'm also dreading the trimming process as I originally thought about getting a giraud but the trim lengths will be all over the place unless I sort by headstamp which seems like a bit much? I did notice that none of the wolf cases were longer than 1.754" while the federal cases were no longer than 1.745" after resizing. So I may not need to trim on the first go around.
Do you guys actually sort .223 brass by headstamp in order to trim consistently? I understand that with precision long range loads you want consistency but I'm only shooting 120 yards with 55 gr Hornady FMJs... Got some H335 coming in the mail tomorrow actually. Figured I'd buy the cheapest powder and bullets for shooting 120 yards.
I think for now, I'll settle for the Lee cutter and lock stud chucked into my cordless drill. Also tried out reaming primer pockets for the first time. I just used the pocket reamer from my lyman case prep tool and chucked it into my drill and it seemed to work very well (I tested by seating primers before and after reaming to confirm ease of seating).
If you trim with a Giraud AFTER you full length resize, then the shoulder is in the same place on all the pieces and trim length is very consistent.
If you trim with a Giraud AFTER you full length resize, then the shoulder is in the same place on all the pieces and trim length is very consistent.
Andrew,
Ok. so everything you say makes perfect sense except that the cases were different after sizing. That doesnt make sense. I'm not saying it isn't true. I just don't understand why.
All I can come up with is that some brass is more elastic than others and may spring back more. But I'm really grasping at straws.
Yeah it does seem odd. I agree, I think it has to do with the elasticity of certain brass. Currently I only have about 50 pieces of federal brass, the rest is wolf gold so it's not the end of the world to sort them out and adjust the die accordingly.
I should find some lake city brass as that seems to be well liked among .223 reloaders.
(emphasis added)
There's a commercial remanufacturer, sold at Dicks stores, in bulk pack blue and white boxes. Their .223 is almost ALL LC with the side benefit of having the .mil crimp already machined off. I've shot two boxes (600rds IIRC???) just to harvest the brass.
Good to know thanks! Is that the ultramax stuff?
My question is, why does case length matter to you? I trim a case once to 2.240 the first time and never trim it again, and I've shot range pickup cases as short at 2.225.
The case length just isn't that important, and for that matter neither is the shoulder location beyond it being in spec.
If you want to make HP ammo for competition and mentally you want to nail down every variable, I get it. But other than that the length and shoulder distance aren't going to mean much towards crafting 1 MOA ammo (assuming your barrel is sub MOA capable). Keep in mind military ammo (like commercial XM193) is spec'd at 4 MOA grouping. You're going to blow that out of the water with reloads.
I'm just trying to say you need to pick a group size that's good for you and then only take the time needed to make that happen. I hear a lot of people wasting A LOT of time chasing variables that just aren't going to change anything when shooting at the range because most people are not MOA shooters.
Question for those chugging the blue kool aid:
Do you use the stock powder measure for precision reloads or is there a better alternative?
I use the stock Dillon powder measure even with Varget. I run 24gr for our match rounds of .223. Ive weighed a bunch of powder charges and they are close enough. I'm not a good enough shot to be able to tell the difference in
.1 gr.
Make sure you check out the OCW method.
https://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/278036-OCW-revisited?highlight=OCW
I usually pick a load I think the velocity I'm looking for is, then load that one, 3 steps below it in 0.4gr and 3 steps about in 0.4gr. So 7 loads of 5 bullets each and group them at 100 yards. Look for the groups that have the same POI. Sometimes you'll have to go even higher to confirm if you're not seeing pressure signs.
Question for those chugging the blue kool aid:
Do you use the stock powder measure for precision reloads or is there a better alternative?