38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I had that happen a couple weeks back. I was looking for a small 22 for my kids to try out. Low and behold I found a small 22 single shot I had not taken out since the week I bought it a few years ago. Pleasant surprise
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/Pioneer Valley Arms February Giveaway ***Smith & Wesson SD9VE 9MM***
What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2011
- Messages
- 27,582
- Likes
- 27,411
don't you just love that? one never knows until you root around in there!
Maybe try moving to Trail Boss powder instead? Its fluffy and will fill a low charge case.
Nothing new to most of you, but that's why the .38 Special can potentially be the most dangerous cartridge to reload. Using a charge of Clays or similar powder under a 148g HBWC will barely be noticeable, unless you're looking directly into the case with decent illumination. It will take about 7 charges to fill the case to the mouth, so it could be very easy to double, triple or give no powder charge without being any the wiser.
Stick to sound procedures and avoid distractions while reloading these (all)...needless to say.
Stick to sound procedures and avoid distractions while reloading these (all)...needless to say.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I post this a few times a year whenever it comes up. Some people don’t understand how pressure changes with seating depth. I think this was tested by HP White labs IIRC
I've had this discussion with a reloader at the club who yells at everyone that uses bullseye powder for 38 special. He tells everyone NEVER use bullseye in 38 special cuz your gonna blow up your gun. I told him I get it.....low volume charges....I know.....but the bottle even says perfect for 38 and 45acp......you just have to follow your procedures and pay attention.....and the stuff is so economical and accurate it's really hard NOT to use it in 38 and 45acp.
Bottom line ....just because YOU blew up a gun because of YOUR double charge and not paying attention doesn't mean everyone else has a process that sucks.
. Yes .....he blew up a gun using bullseye so thinks everyone should stop using it.
The perfect powder is better with sticks like 4320 in my experience.
I'll add it really only matters if your acceptable ranges are small enough. Example. If I'm loading 77gr for long distance, I hand weigh every charge after dropping it to get it spot on.
If you are reloading training ammo like .223 in the mid level charge range, any of the powder measures are fine.
I'll add it really only matters if your acceptable ranges are small enough. Example. If I'm loading 77gr for long distance, I hand weigh every charge after dropping it to get it spot on.
If you are reloading training ammo like .223 in the mid level charge range, any of the powder measures are fine.
If you can accept +/-.3gr extreme spread any drop will do that. Given your charge weight, that less than 1% variation.
cjrubes
NES Member
I haven't had much luck using the Auto Drum with stick powders so I gave up and bought a RCBS Chargemaster Lite for loading rifle rounds. I tried the Auto Drum to load for my Garand using IMR 4895 and my turret press, but I couldn't get my charges very consistent (I don't recall the +/-). I find it much easier to charge each round individually instead of trying to work them through the turret press.
I have had good luck with all powders with the auto drum from H110 to H4895 , along with flat powders like clays. BUT honestly If I dis not have it on my Pro 1000s I would just use my hornady powder measure.
I use the lee dippers also especially for my cast loads with stuff like trailboss and other bulky powders.
Im usually only loading 30-50 cast loads for rifle here and there. So hand scooping with a dipper goes quick if the powder measure is not dialed in.
With a powder through expanding die the Lee Dipper is actually very fast and accurate. Just raise the ram to expand and drop a scoop on the top.
Problem I have with them is zero flexibility. But if you are not fussy and just making range ammo and can find a Dipper size that gives you a charge weight that is in the range they are actually fast and easy. I still use mine from time to time.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I used mine from time to time too. I have tons of extras from old Lee die sets and Lee loaders. I’ve ground some down to make custom scoops and it works well.
I use the older cheaper plastic Lee perfect powder measure for IMR-4064 and it works great. It's usually +/- 0.1 grains if I recall.
Amazon product ASIN B07PQ7DP94View: https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Perfect-Powder-Measurer/dp/B07PQ7DP94
No experience with the deluxe model.
I use the Auto Drum for H4895 and IMR 4895 with no issues. I do use a Hornady powder measure periodically for the larger charges since the hopper doesn't empty as quickly. It also has a steel drum that cuts the sticks for precise loads.
$26 on Amazon (see link above). Good price. I think I paid $20 or $25 about 4-5 years ago.
I have the boxed set with about 12 different sizes. Came with a slide chart for popular powders to tell you which size scoops give you what charge weight. For bullseye.....I rember there were scoops for 4.7 and 3.5 grains......common charges for ,45acp and 38 special.......I'm sure that was intentional.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I have the same set. I always loved the little charts that case with the Lee loaders. It amazes me at how one little scoop coincides with a proper charge for so many powders.
For reference I use the RCBS Uniflow for my 77gr handloads. Varget and RE15. It breezes thru stick powders and its +/-0.1gr if you control the vibrations buy having a solid the table top.
www.rcbs.com
Note any powder dispenser can become very unreliable if you shake the unit. You can test this. Throw 5 charges in a row diligently full stroke hard stop to hard stop. Measure the 5th one. Now gently grab the powder drop and shake it for 5 secs. Drop and measure the next pull. It will be heavier due to powder "settling" in the dispense cavity.
For this reason I NEVER load a round (especially pistol) with the first powder drop when sitting down. It could be an overcharge, especially if you're already near the high end. I throw 10 powder drops and just add them back into the top, then I start loading.
If you leave a station always setup for a caliber with powder in the funnel, test the weight of your first drop to the 5th after not touching it for a few weeks. I think you'll be surprised with how much of a difference there can be on some powder/drop combos.
Uniflow Powder Measure Changes From Charge To Charge | RCBS
The Uniflow Powder Measure throws consistently accurate charges reload after reload. Powder pours uniformly from the measuring cylinder and into case.
www.rcbs.com
Note any powder dispenser can become very unreliable if you shake the unit. You can test this. Throw 5 charges in a row diligently full stroke hard stop to hard stop. Measure the 5th one. Now gently grab the powder drop and shake it for 5 secs. Drop and measure the next pull. It will be heavier due to powder "settling" in the dispense cavity.
For this reason I NEVER load a round (especially pistol) with the first powder drop when sitting down. It could be an overcharge, especially if you're already near the high end. I throw 10 powder drops and just add them back into the top, then I start loading.
If you leave a station always setup for a caliber with powder in the funnel, test the weight of your first drop to the 5th after not touching it for a few weeks. I think you'll be surprised with how much of a difference there can be on some powder/drop combos.
Glad you mentioned this. I'm new to the 44 mag and just lately resized some PPU brass. Hardly any effort. Glad I haven't primed these. I was going to ask you what brass gave you trouble, remembered you talked about bad 44 brass in one of yer posts...
PPU brass in rifle seems pretty good, though...
Yeah absolutely no issues with their rifle brass
Uh oh
dhuze
NES Member
I've been messing with a 100 round box of .45's that I ran my progressive press out powder in. I was in a zone and forgot to watch the powder. I pulled some down, but all I had was an inertia puller so I just marked the box so I make sure to have a dowel with me to clear the barrel. I shoot a few until I get sick of the squibs. It's probably been 8 years for that 100 rounds. I swear the fail rate of that box is above 70%
I pay a lot more attention now.
i epoxy dowels to spent cases, 32sw, 9mm, 40, ect...
do you want to charge on or off the press?
I prefer the auto drum on the pro 1000 but I also have the new style auto disk thats been working very well compared to my much older auto disc.
I dont have any spares. I had a PPM but Im not sure what happened to it?
what where the negative reviews about. I might be wrong but I think its the same measure but with the different hopper that you can attach the powder bottles to if you wanted.
Its by far the biggest issue with the old school red hopper, small and the lid pops off easily.
I dont like the closed top hopper/bottle. Its nice to pop the lid and dump any charges back in that are not going to be used?
Last edited:
