What did you do in the reloading room recently?

I have no visible flash with my 357 16" marlin, using 2400 or any powder I have tested.

Will insufficient crimp cause a change in the powder burn and result in muzzle flash?
Could be. But I crimp them pretty tight.

Its not a consistency issue in charge weight either I weighed each charge individually for testing i didn't use a powder drop.
 
You might want to rethink those statements. A double charge or an over charge is not the only thing that will kaboom a rifle or pistol...

Well said!
My first squib load was in a revolver. The bullet went into the forcing cone and bound up the action, so a subsequent shot was impossible. Knocked the bullet back into the cylinder, opened the action and cleared the mess and good to go.
A primer alone can and does at times send bullets into the bore beyond the reach of the next round, so a blocked bore is in fact a reality.
I've seen one guy with a pistol where the bullet stopped right at the muzzle; half sticking out in plain sight.
You've likely seen pics of that .32 revolver with five bullets stacked inside the barrel...(can't seem to find it anywhere. He must have been puzzled when he checked his target.).
 
Well there's this beauty with TWENTY TWO 9mm rounds:
View attachment 356560
Story:

Here's THIRTY FIVE 45ACP rounds in a Hi Point:
View attachment 356563
Story:

Here are a few others:
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I like that some of these clearly involved a reload
 
Well said!
My first squib load was in a revolver. The bullet went into the forcing cone and bound up the action, so a subsequent shot was impossible. Knocked the bullet back into the cylinder, opened the action and cleared the mess and good to go.
A primer alone can and does at times send bullets into the bore beyond the reach of the next round, so a blocked bore is in fact a reality.
I've seen one guy with a pistol where the bullet stopped right at the muzzle; half sticking out in plain sight.
You've likely seen pics of that .32 revolver with five bullets stacked inside the barrel...(can't seem to find it anywhere. He must have been puzzled when he checked his target.).

Here's one with nine.....the guy must have been totally asleep at the trigger..

image.jpeg
 
Understood. But of the groups are not falling apart when I up the charge for more velocity......that's not a bad thing to have less bullet drop no?

It was just strange to see so much fire from the muzzle. Never thought I'd see that from a 357 mag rifle.
I dont even know what powders are better for less flash. I will poke around with Quick loads to see at what point in the barrel all the powder is burnt up

Any possibility the bullets are the wrong dia?
 
I dont even know what powders are better for less flash. I will poke around with Quick loads to see at what point in the barrel all the powder is burnt up
A heavier bullet should help burn up that powder better and reduce some flash. I never really got much flash from 2400 in a rifle.
 
I dont even know what powders are better for less flash. I will poke around with Quick loads to see at what point in the barrel all the powder is burnt up

Any possibility the bullets are the wrong dia?
Bullets are zero brand jsp. They are good.
 
I never had flash from the rifle with factory 125 grain 357. Never with 158 grain reloads using h110 either. It's strange.
I would bet those 125 factory are using a faster powder and less of it. Most likely moving slower than advertised. The 158 being heavier helps the burn.
You can get away with a faster powder with the light bullets and pull almost the same speeds. No doubt the manufacturers would rather run 10 grains of one powder than run 20 grains of a slower powder to get 150 more FPS more. Especially because people don’t generally chrono their factory ammo and manufacturers usually over estimate their velocity especially on cheap plinking ammo.
 
I would bet those 125 factory are using a faster powder and less of it. Most likely moving slower than advertised. The 158 being heavier helps the burn.
You can get away with a faster powder with the light bullets and pull almost the same speeds. No doubt the manufacturers would rather run 10 grains of one powder than run 20 grains of a slower powder to get 150 more FPS more. Especially because people don’t generally chrono their factory ammo and manufacturers usually over estimate their velocity especially on cheap plinking ammo.
I chronoed Remington green and white box 125 grain jsp and got 1330 out of a 2 1/4 inch snub. Advertised is 1700 out of a 6 inch barrel. Those loads are hit for factory. They flash like crazy from my revolver but never did in the rifle.
 
I chronoed Remington green and white box 125 grain jsp and got 1330 out of a 2 1/4 inch snub. Advertised is 1700 out of a 6 inch barrel. Those loads are hit for factory. They flash like crazy from my revolver but never did in the rifle.
That would make sense for a faster powder. Lots of flash and good speed from a short revolver. No flash from carbine
 
Just finished the last batch of 50 for a total of five hundred .308 loads. Using 147gr FMJ military pulled bullets over
WC-846 pulldown powder, both bought almost 15 years ago from a vendor here in Kentucky.
I'm thinking these cost me about $0.29 each total.

image.jpeg
 
Got a nice box today
Sweet! I got a pound of N320 and N110 coming. Not much but I didn’t need much. Just added it to a friends order who was buying a bunch of powder.

Match primers huh? They worth the added cost? I suppose if you’re a bullseye shooter? As I’ve said before I get 1.5-2" groups with my 357 loads at 100 yards using standard CCI or Win primers. Was always curious about the “match” primers.
 
I chronoed Remington green and white box 125 grain jsp and got 1330 out of a 2 1/4 inch snub. Advertised is 1700 out of a 6 inch barrel. Those loads are hit for factory. They flash like crazy from my revolver but never did in the rifle.
I don’t think I get much of any flash with my 357 158 gr loads in the 16.5" Marlin with 2400.
My 44 mag H110 loads in the Henry are a MUCH different story. Lots of flame with the 180 grainers.
 
Sweet! I got a pound of N320 and N110 coming. Not much but I didn’t need much. Just added it to a friends order who was buying a bunch of powder.

Match primers huh? They worth the added cost? I suppose if you’re a bullseye shooter? As I’ve said before I get 1.5-2" groups with my 357 loads at 100 yards using standard CCI or Win primers. Was always curious about the “match” primers.
Probably not worth the added cost that's what was available. So I just went with it.
 
Will insufficient crimp cause a change in the powder burn and result in muzzle flash?

Yes.
Crimp type (heavy or light, rolled or tapered) will cause a change in burn along with pressure, although pressure might have more to do with setback and charge. Thats something entirely different.

Powder type (slow vs fast, flake vs stick, single vs double base) and a real light crimp can cause flash and low velocity and pressure.

Or at least thats one of the results. I think that was in the step-by-step half of the hornady manual.
 
View attachment 356757

Fortunately I noticed this and didn't send another one through it. I was trying to make some low recoil rounds. I succeeded?

Berry's 125g, 3.8 g of W231, Win primer, seated to 1.445 overall length
Chrono data:
634
573
357
431
530
260
590
452
296
0
My issues were with 38 spl Speer brass, Autocomp and Xtreme plated 125g - you brass looks eerily familiar.
Same bullet and charge in a 357 case fired perfectly from my model 19
 
My issues were with 38 spl Speer brass, Autocomp and Xtreme plated 125g - you brass looks eerily familiar.
Same bullet and charge in a 357 case fired perfectly from my model 19

I just looked at my log, that was PPU brass.

I don't recall trying those bullets in 357. But it seemed regardless of what powder and brass combination I tried, I couldn't get them to settle down and run consistent velocities in 38. I tried Federal, Starline, PPU, R-P nickel plated. The best extreme spread numbers I was able to get those bullets to run in 38 Special was with 4.4 grains of Red Dot, in Federal brass, with CCI 500 primers, seated way down to 1.33" with the crimp folded a little over the start of the bullet's taper kind of like a wadcutter, which out of the 442 ran right about 800fps with a SD of 32fps. I was glad to be done with that box of bullets.

Oh, a 5/16" small block Chevy pushrod worked great as a drift to drive the bullet out of the barrel backwards, and I keep one in the cleaning kit now.
 
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View attachment 356757

Fortunately I noticed this and didn't send another one through it. I was trying to make some low recoil rounds. I succeeded?

Berry's 125g, 3.8 g of W231, Win primer, seated to 1.445 overall length
Chrono data:
634
573
357
431
530
260
590
452
296
0

No experience with 231, but does this charge fill the cavity? If not maybe the variance is the void changing locations due to you being so low?
 
No experience with 231, but does this charge fill the cavity? If not maybe the variance is the void changing locations due to you being so low?

Not even close to filling the case. That's why I got brave and eventually tried setting the bullets back so far. I didn't get scientific enough to test over the chrono after tilting up and tilting down to test for powder distribution.
 
View attachment 356757

Fortunately I noticed this and didn't send another one through it. I was trying to make some low recoil rounds. I succeeded?

Berry's 125g, 3.8 g of W231, Win primer, seated to 1.445 overall length
Chrono data:
634
573
357
431
530
260
590
452
296
0
My 2 squibs were the same situation. Trying to make low recoil 357 rounds using Xtreme plated bullets and bullseye powder. I'm very attentive when I'm reloading and I still can't understand how I managed to have 2 squibs. I swear the bullets were oversized or something?? Really strange.
 
I just looked at my log, that was PPU brass.

I don't recall trying those bullets in 357. But it seemed regardless of what powder and brass combination I tried, I couldn't get them to settle down and run consistent velocities in 38. I tried Federal, Starline, PPU, R-P nickel plated. The best extreme spread numbers I was able to get those bullets to run in 38 Special was with 4.4 grains of Red Dot, in Federal brass, with CCI 500 primers, seated way down to 1.33" with the crimp folded a little over the start of the bullet's taper kind of like a wadcutter, which out of the 442 ran right about 800fps with a SD of 32fps. I was glad to be done with that box of bullets.

Oh, a 5/16" small block Chevy pushrod worked great as a drift to drive the bullet out of the barrel backwards, and I keep one in the cleaning kit now.
I know I've mentioned it here a few times already but I had issues with PPU 357 and 44 mag brass. Casewalls seem to be really thin - at least with the lots of brass I had anyway. I didn't even have to flare the cases to seat a bullet. Needless to say, I scrapped all of that brass.
 
my safe is in my reloading room....i guess this counts. found a new in box gen 4 g19 and a gen whatever g36 in there. looking at paperwork, i see i got the 19 in 2015 and the 36 in 2012. i remember now, just put them on the bottom shelf in back. don't bend over much any more. gonna clean the whole thing out and see what else i can find that got lost in there. i suspect we're close to the end of the surprises buried in there.
 
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