thisI dont like the closed top hopper/bottle. Its nice to pop the lid and dump any charges back in that are not going to be used?
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
Be sure to enter the NES/Pioneer Valley Arms February Giveaway ***Smith & Wesson SD9VE 9MM***
thisI dont like the closed top hopper/bottle. Its nice to pop the lid and dump any charges back in that are not going to be used?
I've had this discussion with a reloader at the club who yells at everyone that uses bullseye powder for 38 special. He tells everyone NEVER use bullseye in 38 special cuz your gonna blow up your gun. I told him I get it.....low volume charges....I know.....but the bottle even says perfect for 38 and 45acp......you just have to follow your procedures and pay attention.....and the stuff is so economical and accurate it's really hard NOT to use it in 38 and 45acp.
Bottom line ....just because YOU blew up a gun because of YOUR double charge and not paying attention doesn't mean everyone else has a process that sucks.. Yes .....he blew up a gun using bullseye so thinks everyone should stop using it.
i should add, IF I where to buy the new design i would probably cut the top of the hopper off.this
If you don't care about it being opaque, I can 3d print an open top hopper with cap pretty much any capacity needed - I already have the hard part (valve portion) modeled and verifiedi should add, IF I where to buy the new design i would probably cut the top of the hopper off.
FAT hopper makes a pyrodex replacement hopper but Im not spending $50 on a $25 powder dispenser.
Call these folks and see if they have the old hopper design in stock. I buy a good amount of lee stuff from them.
Give me a day or so and I'll put together a 3d model that screws into the adapter to give you an open top and cover (much easier to print than the entire hopper)this
I did this after getting the second squib to check the remaining lot of ammo. I have pretty good hearing so it was easy for me to hear the powder moving around.Often times you can shake the rounds to detect powder. Also not always reliable.
Take a look at the RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure that I'm selling, the cap can be easily removed.If you don't care about it being opaque, I can 3d print an open top hopper with cap pretty much any capacity needed - I already have the hard part (valve portion) modeled and verified
RenderingGive me a day or so and I'll put together a 3d model that screws into the adapter to give you an open top and cover (much easier to print than the entire hopper)
sounds like the guys that tell me Im going to ruin my garand shooting light cast loads.Slap that person.
Slap him repeatedly, and then once more for good measure. And a "one to grow on" slap once more for me.
I think I'm at 3.7 gr? ( w/ 165's, would have to re-weigh next load binge) with bullseye in 38 spl.
4000 rounds down the pipe in a 627. Zero issues.
He probably blew it up using super-low charges and real light weight bullets, leaving a ton of dead space.
So I assumed by picture the new bottle does not have a lid. A email to lee says different. ?this
Nice! A modern day 22 Hornet. I’ve only shot one once but it was fun.Trimming 22TCM brass. I just got the Little Crow trimmer, I thought I would use my drill press, but it turns out feeding the cases in vertically is awkward. So, just a standard electric hand drill with a large plastic bin to catch the shavings. It goes along pretty quick, even with less than 1/2" of brass to hold onto
Damn, only 3 grains?Quarantine reloads have been fun.
45/70 loaded with 3.0 grains of Bullseye and a .459” Hi-Tek coated round ball.
Hit a steel .22 target swinger at about 20 yards.View attachment 356511
Given that load is not at the high end it shouldn't make a difference using a magnum primer.
If you are going to pull them you can just deprive exactly like normal. As long as you're not using the handle literally as a jack hammer, a depriming pin will not set off a live primer.
Yep. Just tilt the muzzle up before each shot. I’ll have to run some over the chrono to see how they do.Damn, only 3 grains?
There is a lot of empty space.
CCI website used to state to use #34s as Magnum primers, now they just call them standard primers.Midway sez: "CCI 7.62mm NATO-Spec Military Primers are a military large rifle primer containing magnum priming mix. " under CCI #34's
you might get a touch more velocity but your well with in the safety range of powder/charge/primerI just realized that the 3006 that I reloaded for my M1 Garand used large magnum rifle primers. 46 grains of IMR 4895 and a 150 grain bullet. Are the magnum rifle primers okay here or do I need to pull them all? And if I need to pull them how do I safely pull out the primers or do I just pull the bullets and powder and fire the primers out the rifle without bullets or powder
I got caught up doing yard work all day and forgot about the tumbler. Ran for 8+ hours
Plenty shiny now!
View attachment 357981