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What did you do to your firearm today.
- Thread starter Cluster F
- Start date
Now the question is, what do I build around it.
Took this one out today. Got pissed off then packed up my toys and left the sandbox. This was happening after almost every round and when I disassembled it I noticed the slide was beating the hell out the frame. 
think I have to go heavier on the spring.
think I have to go heavier on the spring. 
chris_1001
NES Member
Something that uses cheap ammo….
Well, I filled out the order request on vudoo's site... just not sure I'm ready to part with that kind of money
SJan
NES Member
It hurts less to buy in pieces.... you already have one piece of the puzzle. The barreled actions are usually in stock at Mile High shooting. Then source the chassis you want from who ever sells it cheapest, or wait for a holiday coupon code deal. Thats how I did it. You wont save much vs a factory rifle, but its the same thing at the end of the day, and you could actually get it sooner assuming the parts you want are in stock at various vendors.
I already have a spare used MPA Comp chassis. Just not sure if I do a B14r or go all in with the Vudoo
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Finally got these two leveled and torqued down.
Took a PA 14x off the black 7.62/.308, put on an Arken EP5. I'd had that rifle awhile.
The FDE one is a 6.5 Creedmoor that I've only test fired for running/operating, it got a 30x Trijicon and is sporting the Atlas PRS I just picked up too.
Took a PA 14x off the black 7.62/.308, put on an Arken EP5. I'd had that rifle awhile.
The FDE one is a 6.5 Creedmoor that I've only test fired for running/operating, it got a 30x Trijicon and is sporting the Atlas PRS I just picked up too.
I had a new rifle case show up today too.
For some years I've had 3x of these Plano all weather tactical cases. Couldn't be happier with them, even broke a buckle (tripped on it while open, snapped it off) and a call to customer service got me to a nice southern lady who sent me 2 for free. But I had only 2x 36 inch models, that won't fit these longer rifles, and 1x a 42 inch. Wanted a 2nd long one.
Was skeptical of this new design, doesn't have buckles on the ends and has some odd pattern on the top - looks cheesy compared to the original in pictures. I was happy to find it is actually studier. Made in the US too. And it swallows a scoped 22 inch barrel AR10 with lots of room to spare. All I do with these is remove a layer of foam, the bottom comes with 2 separate panels of it. Then they nicely carry whatever rifle firmly squished in there, without having to customize them to fit only a certain rifle.
Not a pelican, but $100 from Amazon shipped to your door. And they are made with flying in mind even.
For some years I've had 3x of these Plano all weather tactical cases. Couldn't be happier with them, even broke a buckle (tripped on it while open, snapped it off) and a call to customer service got me to a nice southern lady who sent me 2 for free. But I had only 2x 36 inch models, that won't fit these longer rifles, and 1x a 42 inch. Wanted a 2nd long one.
Was skeptical of this new design, doesn't have buckles on the ends and has some odd pattern on the top - looks cheesy compared to the original in pictures. I was happy to find it is actually studier. Made in the US too. And it swallows a scoped 22 inch barrel AR10 with lots of room to spare. All I do with these is remove a layer of foam, the bottom comes with 2 separate panels of it. Then they nicely carry whatever rifle firmly squished in there, without having to customize them to fit only a certain rifle.
Not a pelican, but $100 from Amazon shipped to your door. And they are made with flying in mind even.
safetyfirst2125
NES Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2020
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Mounted eotech + magnifier on the DD AR10. Needs some adjusting yet though, plus zeroing.
DD really has great grips. Love ‘em.
so, as it rains with nothing better to do - got out 4 guns with non-pinned brakes, drilled them with the cobalt bit up to the barrel, dropped in a steel pin and sealed with the 50/50 solder.
took about of 35 minutes all in all, most of that time - looking for matching short pins. it was optional anyway, but, who cares, as it was all for show anyway.
it actually worked well, as i did the stupid 22lr too, and it had a bit loose brake on it - after this i could not turn it with a wrench. so it worked out better than expected.
cobalt bits on a hand drill - worked just damn fine, like going through cheese, with some oil added to the hole for every 2mm.
bits were nothing special, but worked just fine. i think i used 7/64.
Amazon product ASIN B07D9YCL2TView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9YCL2T
Here is one of the victims:
took about of 35 minutes all in all, most of that time - looking for matching short pins. it was optional anyway, but, who cares, as it was all for show anyway.
it actually worked well, as i did the stupid 22lr too, and it had a bit loose brake on it - after this i could not turn it with a wrench. so it worked out better than expected.
cobalt bits on a hand drill - worked just damn fine, like going through cheese, with some oil added to the hole for every 2mm.
bits were nothing special, but worked just fine. i think i used 7/64.
Amazon product ASIN B07D9YCL2TView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9YCL2T
Here is one of the victims:
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Whatd you use for the pin?
I thought abiut doing this myself as well.
My brain just thought to use the solder
El_Guapo77
NES Member
i had a bit of steel tumbling media pins i did not throw away, 2-3 of them did fit just fine. they were short enough to avoid a need to cut them.
otherwise i would cut something else.
make sure to use proper solder. 50/50 may be too mellow there, but, i do not care. also, once you set it into a hole and it latches to steel, to melt it out will be a pita.
mark the drill bit well with paint to see well of how deep to go. it would be much wiser to take a brake off and drill it separate, but, well. lazy.
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I've also heard of folks using a drill bit as the pin. When you get to the depth, just snap it off, grind flush if need be, perfect fit every time.
I know nothing of this stuff from personal experience, living in NH I only worry about a pinned muzzle device on those few 14.5 inch barrels where the flash hider makes it a 16 and I just buy them that way. Faxon has some cool stuff that comes as such, integral muzzle devices for instance.
I know nothing of this stuff from personal experience, living in NH I only worry about a pinned muzzle device on those few 14.5 inch barrels where the flash hider makes it a 16 and I just buy them that way. Faxon has some cool stuff that comes as such, integral muzzle devices for instance.
anything would do, really, a bit from a torx key, or just cut off a piece from steel paper clip. does not matter.
like i said, it is mostly for the show. but it also works, surprisingly.
Cleaned up some pieces I inherited.
S&W model 19 4.5” barrel with hardly any cylinder wear / drag.
Beretta 92FS INOX with stainless controls, zero slide wear.
Mossberg 590 Retro in near mint condition.
I’ll post pics in SEP new acquisitions because they are in fact new to me.
S&W model 19 4.5” barrel with hardly any cylinder wear / drag.
Beretta 92FS INOX with stainless controls, zero slide wear.
Mossberg 590 Retro in near mint condition.
I’ll post pics in SEP new acquisitions because they are in fact new to me.
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GM-GUY
NES Member
Zeroed my Night Hunting AR in 5.56. I bought a Sightmark 4x32/50 IR scope some time back and had it mounted and bore-sighted. It looked way off so I shimed up the rear by 0.010”. Today I got to test it, it wasn’t enough. Off by 6” low & left by 2” at 50 yards. Quick adjustment and I’m hitting center of 10” steel at 100 meters.
For those that don’t know, the adjustment is electronic, not mechanical. The projected reticle moves, not the glass within.
Anyway, I’ll confirm again tomorrow after I clean it today - I just went out and repainted my targets. The 100 meter range off the deck is very handy.
The scope is ~$500, not high end - but I’ll be whacking coyotes now that they have broken the truce and almost ate my rooster this week (9AM Monday)
For those that don’t know, the adjustment is electronic, not mechanical. The projected reticle moves, not the glass within.
Anyway, I’ll confirm again tomorrow after I clean it today - I just went out and repainted my targets. The 100 meter range off the deck is very handy.
The scope is ~$500, not high end - but I’ll be whacking coyotes now that they have broken the truce and almost ate my rooster this week (9AM Monday)
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so, after i fixed old one - lapped and re-torqued the cmmg .22lr barrel into upper, after the test shoot today found out that on other upper - a bear creek one - bolt`s firing pin started getting stuck.
it did not go full auto on me, but it did manifest itself as a lack of desire to properly load 1st round from the mag, was getting stuck sideways not going in.
at the range i wrote it off to the usual idea that the chamber got dirty - as it would shoot fine afterwards with no FTLs - but at home discovered, crap, it is worse than it looked.
and killed now about hour and a half trying to figure out what started it, tried to decopper it, then polish, then drill out a bit, then polish again - it was getting stuck somewhere at the end of the chamber, like locking into a dent with a distinctive click, and a force of spring alone could not dislodge it. finally after more intense polishing it just cleared out, got clicked a couple of times and then released, and started moving freer, with some feel left, but no longer getting stuck in.
quite an annoying crap.
ps. speaking about the general bear creek shit quality, per se.
it did not go full auto on me, but it did manifest itself as a lack of desire to properly load 1st round from the mag, was getting stuck sideways not going in.
at the range i wrote it off to the usual idea that the chamber got dirty - as it would shoot fine afterwards with no FTLs - but at home discovered, crap, it is worse than it looked.
and killed now about hour and a half trying to figure out what started it, tried to decopper it, then polish, then drill out a bit, then polish again - it was getting stuck somewhere at the end of the chamber, like locking into a dent with a distinctive click, and a force of spring alone could not dislodge it. finally after more intense polishing it just cleared out, got clicked a couple of times and then released, and started moving freer, with some feel left, but no longer getting stuck in.
quite an annoying crap.
ps. speaking about the general bear creek shit quality, per se.
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I
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Added a 4" Performance Center Optics Ready Slide (ORS) to my Shield M2.0.
I'd been looking for a 4" slide for my Shield for a while, and noticed CDNN was blowing out stripped 4" PC slides ($60!), so I figured I'd try one out.
When they say "stripped," they mean stripped. Between the extra parts laying around in my "S&W Shit Bin" and Midwest Gun Works, I gathered the parts to put it together. A special thanks to our own Remsport for the 4" Shield barrel. The Shield uses the RMSc footprint for the optic, so that means RDSs like Swampfox Sentinel, Sig Romeo Zero, Shield RMSc, Holosun 407k, and the new Crimson Trace CT RAD Micro Pro. I like the Holosun, but the Shield mounting surface has 4 "bosses." To use the Holosun, you need to either mill off the two rear bosses (nope), or use an adapter plate. I decided on the CT RAD Micro Pro. The only compromise was the red RAD Micro Pro is a 3 MOA dot. I like a larger dot, but the 5 MOA dot is only available in green. Turns out the 3 MOA dot works well.
I don't know if I'm sold on an RDS on a carry gun (I need a lot more rounds down range to make that decision), but the 4" slide really balances well. All in all, a great project.
I'd been looking for a 4" slide for my Shield for a while, and noticed CDNN was blowing out stripped 4" PC slides ($60!), so I figured I'd try one out.
When they say "stripped," they mean stripped. Between the extra parts laying around in my "S&W Shit Bin" and Midwest Gun Works, I gathered the parts to put it together. A special thanks to our own Remsport for the 4" Shield barrel. The Shield uses the RMSc footprint for the optic, so that means RDSs like Swampfox Sentinel, Sig Romeo Zero, Shield RMSc, Holosun 407k, and the new Crimson Trace CT RAD Micro Pro. I like the Holosun, but the Shield mounting surface has 4 "bosses." To use the Holosun, you need to either mill off the two rear bosses (nope), or use an adapter plate. I decided on the CT RAD Micro Pro. The only compromise was the red RAD Micro Pro is a 3 MOA dot. I like a larger dot, but the 5 MOA dot is only available in green. Turns out the 3 MOA dot works well.
I don't know if I'm sold on an RDS on a carry gun (I need a lot more rounds down range to make that decision), but the 4" slide really balances well. All in all, a great project.
Bodhisattva
NES Member
Finally found the time to paint my muzzleloader and my bolt gun.
Muzzleloader (CVA Wolf)
Bolt gun (Mossberg MVP Patrol with LR stock)
Muzzleloader (CVA Wolf)
Bolt gun (Mossberg MVP Patrol with LR stock)
Got some
In yesterday from my from my AmmoSquared subscription
In yesterday from my from my AmmoSquared subscription
Palladin
NES Member
Last week I sent my G23 Gen2 frame back to Glock with $100. They sent me a new Gen3 frame within a week.
Now I can get a 357sig barrel for it and have 2 guns in one
Now I can get a 357sig barrel for it and have 2 guns in one
paulleve
NES Member
It was a nice day for some long range fun with the 10/22 I put together a few months ago. I decided to go with a Kidd barrel on the build, and couldn't be happier with the results. This rifle works well with Aguila SE, and is able to get hits on the 6" plate at 400 yards about half of the time - unless the wind is causing problems. (Each 1 mph crosswind = 7" shift at 400.) Between the stop at Dunkin' and the 350 rounds sent down range, the day only cost me about $30. 
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- Joined
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I gave my revolver a good cleaning.
That’s a sweet glock all aroundTook this one out today. Got pissed off then packed up my toys and left the sandbox. This was happening after almost every round and when I disassembled it I noticed the slide was beating the hell out the frame.
View attachment 652791
