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The advantage of first focal plane scopes is that everything in your field of view (the image and the reticle) are magnified in unison so that the stadia lines (or dots) of the reticle can be used at any magnification. Personally, I've never used one but my next one will be one.FFP or SFP scope?
It doesn't matter so long as the windage and elevation adjustments match the reticle subtentions.mil or moa
Me too!I am really glad I have been following this thread.
Can you shoot an AR-10 in matches?
The advantage of first focal plane scopes is that everything in your field of view (the image and the reticle) are magnified in unison so that the stadia lines (or dots) of the reticle can be used at any magnification. Personally, I've never used one but my next one will be one.
It doesn't matter so long as the windage and elevation adjustments match the reticle subtentions.
If your reticle's stadia are in milliradians, then your scope's adjustments should also be in milliradians. If your reticle's stadia are in minutes of angle, so should your adjustments be.
That is so you can easily transfer any offsets measured with your reticle to your adjustments without having to do unit conversions.
Can you shoot an AR-10 in matches?
been lurking quite a bit over at sniperhide lately, and by lately i mean the last week.
how big of a deal is it to have a heavy barrel?
I dont plan on shootin fast and i take it theres quite a bit of time between shots. so besides being more rigid is a heavy barrel that big of a deal?
Yes, you can shoot in F T/R class during any NRA mid range or long range prone match. But why not add irons and a sling?Thanks. Can you shoot it with glass as in a precision match?
This is not my picture but my setup is very similar:
I have a Nightforce 3.5-15x50 mounted on it.
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Jose, I love your rifle picture settings. Kitchen, bathroom, whatever. It'll hold the rifle.
I guess it depends on how much you want to know.
The best ballistics books I know of are the Sierra 4th and 5th edition reloading manuals. Fortunately the Ballistics portion of both are on line. The other is Applied Ballistics For Long Range Shooting by Bryan Litz. You can read some of the articles on Bryan's website and get a feel for the book.
Another excellent book is The Military and Police Sniper by Mike Lau. This is probably a good starter book, as the other two ballistics books deal mostly with theory.
I don't have any first hand knowledge about it, but I think SigAcademy offers one and Weaponcraft in Portland has one. I have talked to Derek about bringing a couple of people to NY to shoot the 1000 yard matches in Albany. Probably a Karma thing next year if it happens.
B
Long gun ownership is not licensed in NYS. No need to rely on FOPA.
FFP or FSP scope?
.mil or moa
This reticle was designed in response to extensive research conducted by Nightforce with the cooperation of the world’s foremost high power competitors. Nightforce is proud the United States Army Marksmanship Unit has chosen the CH-2 over all reticles for high power and benchrest competition.
USAMU’s use of this reticle in 5.5-22x56 NXS demonstrates Nightforce’s achievement in developing the best scope and reticle combination for the elite sport of long-range, high power competitio
Breaking a shot and hearing the clang of steel a second and a half later from a target 800 yards away is a rush like no other.
Lot of good info on this thread I was trying to figure out how far the targets were by the time elapsed between the shot and the clang on the Thunder Valley vids.
I'm sure you weren't trying to be literal but sound travels 1126ft/s (375 yd/s) in air. Wouldn't the clang take 2.13 seconds just to travel back 800 yards ? I was thinking that 800 yards would be closer to 3+ seconds between the shot and the clang. Not trying to be a PITA, just wanted to get my math straight.
Yeah, that's what I figure. I have a bolt gun on my short list though. After reading Jose's post, I am googling Howa barreled actions now.
$470 buys you the barreled action and some crap plastic stock that you were going to trash anyway.
Add a Manners stock for $450, a Bipod for $100, a quality (not necessarily S&B) scope with 15X, rings, bases, and a Timney trigger and you are GTG.
My stick is back from the gunsmith, re-stocked and repainted. The trigger has been reworked but it's still the usual Howa suck-ass trigger. A 1.5 lb Timney was ordered today to replace it.
It needs to be bedded and the money spent on that is totally worth it.
You'll never get a perfect fit between the two with drop in stocks because of tolerance stack up.
Any rifle can be improved by gunsmithing but my particular Howa is shooting very well just as it came and with a good stock, bedding, and trigger. I'd say buy the barreled action, stock it, bed it, put a good trigger in it, then see how it does. If it's still not good enough, then spend money on truing the receiver and maybe rebarreling.
If you do buy a Howa, budget $120 for an aftermarket trigger. My gunsmith tried to save the factory trigger but he said there's not much that can be done and after comparing it to a Timney I agree.