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Vehicle Undercoating
- Thread starter mitch28
- Start date
Grendizer138
NES Member
That’s more of a “retard fee” though and totally justifiably.
LTCRN
NES Member
We all are! Nothing like eating a sandwich with oil soaked fingers and hands in the middle of a wrench swinging day! Tranny fluid baths were always fun. Add in some gasoline from pumping gas, changing fuel filters, fuel pumps, broken gas lines, and leaking fuel tanks. And who can forget blowing off Raybestos brake dust before replacing a set of shoes. That stuff was flying in the air practically every day that I worked at the garage. Finally antifreeze coated hands from radiator, water pump, thermostat, hose replacement, and the occasional unfortunate taste test and no wonder we are all going to die an early death!
LTCRN
NES Member
Time is money! Especially when it's because of stupidity!
KBCraig
NES Member
On the contrary: the Jeep dealer is counting on rusty parts, and wants your Jeep to rust away until you buy a new one.
Grendizer138
NES Member
Alright, brought the Tacoma to NERD in East Bridgewater today. The owner, Steve, is a 20-something year old that built a business out of a garage in his parents’ back yard. He is also does the application. Very impressive young man. Polite, explains everything well and doesn’t try to up sell.
I decided on the clear NH oil. I did remove the spare and skid plates, although he confirmed he takes them off before applying.
He laid it on thick and I think did a great job. Cash discount, $300. Will be back.
I decided on the clear NH oil. I did remove the spare and skid plates, although he confirmed he takes them off before applying.
He laid it on thick and I think did a great job. Cash discount, $300. Will be back.
Vehicle Protection Excellence | New England Rust Defenders
Offering rustoration, undercoating, Boss Wax & Oil, and wheel-well guard services for vehicle protection in East Bridgewater, MA | New England Rust Defenders
www.newenglandrust.com
Grendizer138
NES Member
New (to me) vehicle. But talked to Steve about this as I normally do it every Fall. He said summer is best because the metal is more porous and the product can be applied thicker. I plan on doing it September-ish going forward.
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Do you guys think undercoatings can be an issue when driving on sand?
I never drove an underground coated vehicle over sand, but was thinking about it on Thursday when I got the oversand sticker.
I don't care about sand. My main concern is the salt that is mixed with the sand.
I am guessing a good power wash should take care of it.
I never drove an underground coated vehicle over sand, but was thinking about it on Thursday when I got the oversand sticker.
I don't care about sand. My main concern is the salt that is mixed with the sand.
I am guessing a good power wash should take care of it.
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Alright, brought the Tacoma to NERD in East Bridgewater today. The owner, Steve, is a 20-something year old that built a business out of a garage in his parents’ back yard. He is also does the application. Very impressive young man. Polite, explains everything well and doesn’t try to up sell.
I decided on the clear NH oil. I did remove the spare and skid plates, although he confirmed he takes them off before applying.
He laid it on thick and I think did a great job. Cash discount, $300. Will be back.
Vehicle Protection Excellence | New England Rust Defenders
Offering rustoration, undercoating, Boss Wax & Oil, and wheel-well guard services for vehicle protection in East Bridgewater, MA | New England Rust Defenderswww.newenglandrust.com
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Did he get inside all of the frame pieces, inside the doors, etc. as well? Great doing the outside but you really need to start from the inside out IMO.
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Powerwashing the frame, etc. defeats the purpose of putting the coating on, IMO.
In God We Trust
NES Member
I had zero body rust on my 15 year old truck. It was all on the expensive parts. Pretty much everything you could see when you put it on the lift had rust except the body panels.
Grendizer138
NES Member
I’m not sure what you’re asking. The Tacoma is a C-channel open frame, not a boxed frame like a full-size, so all sides of the frame are coated.
I would recommend you contact the company applying whatever product you plan on using for specific questions.
Places that do it well are getting into cavities , pulling light assemblies , fender wells , door pannels
Others spray what you can see.
Im still teying to find some nozzles that will spray 360” to do some cavities
My truck is beyond “preventive”
Im at a try to squeeze 5 plus more years out of it.
I went to do a rust conversion product and the sprayer I had failed hard and puked the product all over the floor.
It also wound not “spray the product well it just came out in streams
The 3M cavity wax wand kit works well ... assuming aerosol cans. The longest length is probably around 4 ft.
There are cheaper versions around with different spray nozzles but haven't tried them.
FWIW, I've used the 3M cavity wax for the frame rails and behind panels. It's less viscous and more flowable than cosmoline type products but it seems to eventually cure to a more viscous state than some of the lanolin products. But 3M anything is expensive.
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I’ve been using coroseal . It’s brush on or applied with an airless sprayer. I bought a cheap airless sprayer, but apparently it didn’t like the product even on adjusting it to spray it would not come out as a spray and something let go on the body like a seal or the housing cracked. I didn’t even bother looking at it has so I got about eight minutes into the job and it blew a apart and made a huge mess in the shop I tossed the whole thing in the trash, cleaned up the best I could and called it a day. For the past two years it’s basically how things have been going for me. Everything is breaking. Everything is falling apart. Everything I buy sucks no matter how much I spend just a royal pain in the ass lately.
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@Grendizer138 This, what mac1911 said, and sections of the Tacoma frame are boxed. Many places are half-ass and just spray surfaces, never getting into nooks, crannies, behind anything, bottoms of doors, etc.
Rob Boudrie
NES Member
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As to retard fees - During the covid scare, Bernarti Toyota added a $3 surcharge on all service work to cover the cost of wiping the door handle and steering wheel. This included recall work and contractually guaranteed routine service for a certain amount of time after the sale.
The AG's office was too busy harassing gun owners to do anything about it, though they did send me a letter telling me they were choosing not to take enforcement action on my consumer complaint.
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Grendizer138
NES Member
Lolz. I wasn’t aware that rusted headlight housings were a thing, but if you guys have enough disposable income to pay someone to remove headlights, fenderskins, and whatnot before applying a preservative don’t let me stop you.
Unless you think that $300 should cover that, in which case please disregard my referral- I don’t want to send him any PITA customers.
Coda
NES Member
When I spray mine I just remove the skid plates.
I figure anywhere salt/water is going to get the fluid film will also get there being sprayed @ 100 PSI. And the way fluid film creeps I am not worried about it.
Asaltweapon
NES Member
The warm temps help it creep into seams better.
We needed a new refrigerator during Covid, stock on any models was pretty limited at that time. The wife and I agreed on a particular Bosch that fit our needs. The only dealer within delivery range that had one within a week was Hudson (MA) Appliance. They added on a "Covid Cleaning Fee" or some other BS description for $45. All the delivery guys did was spray and wipe the outside of the refrigerator.
I had done a lot of business with them when I worked in Hudson, but they're F*ckers forever in my book now.
Grendizer138
NES Member
Yeah, it’s probably good to take the wand and get inside a boxed frame, but that’s something to square away with the company applying it beforehand. Skid plates and spare tire are easy and a must.
I do these undercoats because I’ll (hopefully) get a few more years of a rust-free undercarriage. I put 25k miles/year on and I really don’t give a shit if two or three owners from now the headlight housing is rusty.
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Your planning ro get rid of it.
Some are not …. Its all what makes us feel good.
If im turning over vehicles every 3-5 years I would not give a f*** .
I keep them till they fail hard . Them I buy another pos, lol
Grendizer138
NES Member
The Tacoma I’d like to keep for 5-10 years, so I’m more interested in preserving.
The Jeep will hit 100k miles in another year and a half, and I’ll probably get something else. So I’m basically doing a favor for the next guy. I’m not taking headlights or fenderskins out for him though!
Not with woolwax. That stuff just sticks to the frame.
If you shoot it with a power washer from like 3" it will come off.
I got covered in woolwax this past weekend installing rock sliders, and those were installed on the frame, the parts of the truck that get all the splash from rain and get hit with the power washer. I had to wash my arms and face several times after I was done. I was holding one end with my legs, the other end with my head, middle with my shoulder and using my hands to try to tighten the bolts. That was a good time and ended up covered in Woolwax
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
