Vehicle Undercoating

mac1911 said:
for $325 I guess thats what you get, I would want the tire dropped , those wheelwell liners removed and even pop out the head light and tail light assemblies the cost will go up for all that though. In the end if your happy thats all that matters
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Not necessary. Fluid Film creeps. I have sprayed it in the lower rust proofing holes of my door. Then I needed to pull the interior panel to work on a speaker and it had defied gravity and crept upwards!!!
 
HorizontalHunter said:
I used to pull the tail lights out of my 2013 every spring for the big spring rinse. I was always amazed how much silt and crap got up there.
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Right, but rust around the tail lights is really not a major concern. It is the structural things that I am keeping up on. If silt and crap can get in there, then Fluid Film can also.
 
Coda said:
Right, but rust around the tail lights is really not a major concern..
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That’s not why I did it. On my 2013 it allowed unimpeded access to the full length of the interior of the bedside to hose it out. I was always surprised at how much sand and silt was on the driveway after the big spring flush.

It will be interesting to see how the aluminum body on my Super Duty holds up.

Bob
 
HorizontalHunter said:
That’s not why I did it. On my 2013 it allowed unimpeded access to the full length of the interior of the bedside to hose it out. I was always surprised at how much sand and silt was on the driveway after the big spring flush.

It will be interesting to see how the aluminum body on my Super Duty holds up.

Bob
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The aluminum will hold up fine (look at all the Grumman U.S. mail trucks, UPS trucks, aluminum trailers and truck beds/bodies, etc. on the road that don't have any rot), but you still need to protect the steel frame, etc.
 
I have been thinking about using a airless paint sprayer to apply the Woolwax/NH oil. I have my eye on one from harbor freight. Has anyone else used an airless sprayer, if so what nozzle did they use?
 
Laderbuilt said:
I have been thinking about using a airless paint sprayer to apply the Woolwax/NH oil. I have my eye on one from harbor freight. Has anyone else used an airless sprayer, if so what nozzle did they use?
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Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


1684363036334.jpeg
 
Coda said:
Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


View attachment 753571
Click to expand...
This is the way to go, yes you need to crank the PSI up, 40psi isn't going to cut it.
 
Coda said:
Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


View attachment 753571
Click to expand...
I have a woolwax setup and it's basically the same
 
Coda said:
Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


View attachment 753571
Click to expand...

That’s the same setup I have for Woolwax and NH oil. Woolwax is thicker then fluid film so even a bit more of a pain. I have a 80 gallon compressor putting out 120psi and it sprays fine. It just takes a lot of refilling the bottles to get the job done.
I’ve seen videos on Woolwax website of guys using an airless sprayer and it looks the sweet. But they won’t tell you what nozzle there using. I’ll see if I can find a vid to post.


View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YaKK_uXKi8g
 
I used these guys last fall (in Leominster) on my almost new F150 and it has held up exceptionally well, but expensive ($800 IIRC)
Noxudul which dried solid and a cavity wax treatment - told should come every 2-3 years for touch ups (< $100)
www.newenglandundercoat.net

New England Undercoat | Undercoating | Leominster, MA

Undercoating. Rust protection. Truck undercoating. Rhino lining. Call us for an estimate.
www.newenglandundercoat.net www.newenglandundercoat.net

They also sprayed in a rhino bed liner which looks great as well.
 
What do mechanics think of these undercoatings? I can’t even imagine working on a vehicle with an undercoat that dries hard. It’s bad enough trying to chase leaks with the fluid varieties.
 
Any type of fluid film or oil undercoat is messy to work on the vehicle after it’s done. I had to do my alternator on my Tundra. I was smeared all over my arms and elsewhere with Woolwax. When I was done I had to re coat where I had rubbed it off but end of the day it’s not bad. Washes off your skin easily enough.
 
Tis' the season & I'm thinking of corrosion. Any recommendations on reasonable Wool-wax or NH oil type (non-rubberized)Undercoating on the North Shore or up to NH seacoast?
I realize there is a distributor map & search function looking for recommendations with recent first hand experience
 
glostamon said:
Tis' the season & I'm thinking of corrosion. Any recommendations on reasonable Wool-wax or NH oil type (non-rubberized)Undercoating on the North Shore or up to NH seacoast?
I realize there is a distributor map & search function looking for recommendations with recent first hand experience
Click to expand...

Noxudol, I've had Fluid Film and Woolwax and I like it best (but frame cannot have too much corrosion).

www.noxudolusa.com

Rust Proofing Car | Car Rust Protection | Rust Proofing Spray

Noxudol is a superior line of undercoatings and rust proofing car and spray products. We offer application centers across the U.S.
www.noxudolusa.com www.noxudolusa.com

Car Rust Protection Services | Find Application Centers in USA | Noxudol

Noxudol provides efficient car rust protection services in several locations in the USA. Checkout our map to find an application center near you!
www.noxudolusa.com www.noxudolusa.com
 
I used fluid film one year, on all 3 vehicles, after a couple months, it looked like I did not even apply it.
What I am saying is, this blaster surface shield stays on and looks like I applied it yesterday, even after a full year of driving.
 
I'm in Fitchburg. I have the NH oil treatment done every year since new on my 18 Tacoma at Desilet's Auto. Likewise with GF's 21 RAV 4. They also have a more involved clear treatment now but only if the vehicle has never been sprayed with anything else. He's also our mechanic.
 
alpineboard said:
I used fluid film one year, on all 3 vehicles, after a couple months, it looked like I did not even apply it.
What I am saying is, this blaster surface shield stays on and looks like I applied it yesterday, even after a full year of driving.
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I agree, ive noticed the same thing......the blaster is a better product, there is actual petroleum stuff in it that it doesn't wash away like FF.
 
You should do your best to remove any loose and heavy rot. Not just hard surface rust.
If your vehicle has some age a rust converter could help.
Im trying to get my truck done before its to cold.
Douche it real good, scrape off loose and scaling rust , rust converter and maybe even paint it? Then some sort of protective layer.
I need 10 more years from my truck….
 
alpineboard said:
I used fluid film one year, on all 3 vehicles, after a couple months, it looked like I did not even apply it.
What I am saying is, this blaster surface shield stays on and looks like I applied it yesterday, even after a full year of driving.
Click to expand...
I use fluid film yearly and I apply it every October and I can honestly say my frame looks to be in excellent condition. 2015 Sierra
5 years doing it, few guys at work have 2014-16’s and when we compare they can’t believe it
 

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I am a FF guy. Here is a shot under my 2001 ZR2 Blazer. I bought this new and the first few years I would wire brush and POR15 any rust. I finally said the hell with that and just Fluid Filmed it.

This it what it looks like now and I have not done it in 12 months. It gets to the point where you get so much on there that it takes a long time to wash away. I am just going to touch it up this year.

Notice the little bare metal spot on the crossmember. That has been that way for several years, shiny metal under FF and NO rust. I am going to clean and POR15 that spot soon.

It's a mess but no rust...........

1697063131640.jpeg
 


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