Coda
NES Member
That is not bad at all. If you keep up on the undercoating you have nothing to worry about.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
Vehicle Undercoating
- Thread starter mitch28
- Start date
Coda
NES Member
Not necessary. Fluid Film creeps. I have sprayed it in the lower rust proofing holes of my door. Then I needed to pull the interior panel to work on a speaker and it had defied gravity and crept upwards!!!
Coda
NES Member
Right, but rust around the tail lights is really not a major concern. It is the structural things that I am keeping up on. If silt and crap can get in there, then Fluid Film can also.
Coda
NES Member
Yup, it is called "planed longevity"
HorizontalHunter
NES Member
That’s not why I did it. On my 2013 it allowed unimpeded access to the full length of the interior of the bedside to hose it out. I was always surprised at how much sand and silt was on the driveway after the big spring flush.
It will be interesting to see how the aluminum body on my Super Duty holds up.
Bob
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
- Messages
- 7,326
- Likes
- 12,531
The aluminum will hold up fine (look at all the Grumman U.S. mail trucks, UPS trucks, aluminum trailers and truck beds/bodies, etc. on the road that don't have any rot), but you still need to protect the steel frame, etc.
Laderbuilt
NES Member
I have been thinking about using a airless paint sprayer to apply the Woolwax/NH oil. I have my eye on one from harbor freight. Has anyone else used an airless sprayer, if so what nozzle did they use?
Coda
NES Member
Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.
I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.
I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.
Boghog1
NES Member
This is the way to go, yes you need to crank the PSI up, 40psi isn't going to cut it.
Lucus
NES Member
Laderbuilt
NES Member
That’s the same setup I have for Woolwax and NH oil. Woolwax is thicker then fluid film so even a bit more of a pain. I have a 80 gallon compressor putting out 120psi and it sprays fine. It just takes a lot of refilling the bottles to get the job done.
I’ve seen videos on Woolwax website of guys using an airless sprayer and it looks the sweet. But they won’t tell you what nozzle there using. I’ll see if I can find a vid to post.
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YaKK_uXKi8g
Stryker
NES Member
I used these guys last fall (in Leominster) on my almost new F150 and it has held up exceptionally well, but expensive ($800 IIRC)
Noxudul which dried solid and a cavity wax treatment - told should come every 2-3 years for touch ups (< $100)
www.newenglandundercoat.net
They also sprayed in a rhino bed liner which looks great as well.
Noxudul which dried solid and a cavity wax treatment - told should come every 2-3 years for touch ups (< $100)
New England Undercoat | Undercoating | Leominster, MA
Undercoating. Rust protection. Truck undercoating. Rhino lining. Call us for an estimate.
www.newenglandundercoat.net
They also sprayed in a rhino bed liner which looks great as well.
Grendizer138
NES Member
What do mechanics think of these undercoatings? I can’t even imagine working on a vehicle with an undercoat that dries hard. It’s bad enough trying to chase leaks with the fluid varieties.
Asaltweapon
NES Member
Autobody work after the fact has got to suck.
Grendizer138
NES Member
I don’t know, undercoat is great at hiding bad welds
Boghog1
NES Member
I would rather do body work on steel that isn't rotted, it's easier to fix dents than it is rot. Same with mechanical work, I prefer when nuts and bolts can be removed vs being cut with the blue wrench.
Laderbuilt
NES Member
Any type of fluid film or oil undercoat is messy to work on the vehicle after it’s done. I had to do my alternator on my Tundra. I was smeared all over my arms and elsewhere with Woolwax. When I was done I had to re coat where I had rubbed it off but end of the day it’s not bad. Washes off your skin easily enough.
glostamon
NES Member
Tis' the season & I'm thinking of corrosion. Any recommendations on reasonable Wool-wax or NH oil type (non-rubberized)Undercoating on the North Shore or up to NH seacoast?
I realize there is a distributor map & search function looking for recommendations with recent first hand experience
I realize there is a distributor map & search function looking for recommendations with recent first hand experience
slugworth
NES Member
This is a good watch from somebody on the East Coast Rust Belt area. A great YouTube channel as well
View: https://youtu.be/nXvl9nt57Kg?si=KPekhB5-USD-xIAa
View: https://youtu.be/nXvl9nt57Kg?si=KPekhB5-USD-xIAa
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
- Messages
- 7,326
- Likes
- 12,531
Noxudol, I've had Fluid Film and Woolwax and I like it best (but frame cannot have too much corrosion).
Rust Proofing by Noxudol | Car Rust Protection | Rust Proofing Spray
Noxudol is a superior line of undercoatings and rust proofing car and spray products manufactured and engineered to provide excellent protection to all motor vehicles. We also offer application centers in many locations in the United States. Buy our products easily and quickly using our fast...
www.noxudolusa.com
Car Rust Protection Services | Find Application Centers in USA | Noxudol
Noxudol provides efficient car rust protection services in several locations in the USA. Checkout our map to find an application center near you!
www.noxudolusa.com
Mark from MA
NES Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2008
- Messages
- 11,628
- Likes
- 11,827
I use this and fluid film kinda interchangeably. Whatever I can find at the store.
Reminds me I need to respray the Taco.......
I used fluid film one year, on all 3 vehicles, after a couple months, it looked like I did not even apply it.
What I am saying is, this blaster surface shield stays on and looks like I applied it yesterday, even after a full year of driving.
What I am saying is, this blaster surface shield stays on and looks like I applied it yesterday, even after a full year of driving.
zork51
NES Member
I'm in Fitchburg. I have the NH oil treatment done every year since new on my 18 Tacoma at Desilet's Auto. Likewise with GF's 21 RAV 4. They also have a more involved clear treatment now but only if the vehicle has never been sprayed with anything else. He's also our mechanic.
Mark from MA
NES Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2008
- Messages
- 11,628
- Likes
- 11,827
I agree, ive noticed the same thing......the blaster is a better product, there is actual petroleum stuff in it that it doesn't wash away like FF.
You should do your best to remove any loose and heavy rot. Not just hard surface rust.
If your vehicle has some age a rust converter could help.
Im trying to get my truck done before its to cold.
Douche it real good, scrape off loose and scaling rust , rust converter and maybe even paint it? Then some sort of protective layer.
I need 10 more years from my truck….
If your vehicle has some age a rust converter could help.
Im trying to get my truck done before its to cold.
Douche it real good, scrape off loose and scaling rust , rust converter and maybe even paint it? Then some sort of protective layer.
I need 10 more years from my truck….
mikelawtown
NES Member
I use fluid film yearly and I apply it every October and I can honestly say my frame looks to be in excellent condition. 2015 Sierra
5 years doing it, few guys at work have 2014-16’s and when we compare they can’t believe it
Attachments
Coda
NES Member
I am a FF guy. Here is a shot under my 2001 ZR2 Blazer. I bought this new and the first few years I would wire brush and POR15 any rust. I finally said the hell with that and just Fluid Filmed it.
This it what it looks like now and I have not done it in 12 months. It gets to the point where you get so much on there that it takes a long time to wash away. I am just going to touch it up this year.
Notice the little bare metal spot on the crossmember. That has been that way for several years, shiny metal under FF and NO rust. I am going to clean and POR15 that spot soon.
It's a mess but no rust...........
This it what it looks like now and I have not done it in 12 months. It gets to the point where you get so much on there that it takes a long time to wash away. I am just going to touch it up this year.
Notice the little bare metal spot on the crossmember. That has been that way for several years, shiny metal under FF and NO rust. I am going to clean and POR15 that spot soon.
It's a mess but no rust...........
Similar threads
